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Belize’s famed ATM is not known for its free transactions or wonderful user interface. In fact, it isn’t a cash machine at all. ATM is the easy abbreviation for Actun Tunichil Muknal, a famous Mayan archeological site located near San Ignacio Cayo.

ATM is actually a cave with numerous Mayan artifacts once used for sacred ritual sacrifice. The cave is home to a collection of ceramics and stoneware and human remains! 14 skeletons, have been found in the chamber as well as several ceramic pieces with characteristic “kill holes” indicating they were made for ceremonial purposes. The skeletons bear marks of ritual sacrifice and do not resemble the burial customs of the Maya consistent with human remains found in other nearby caves. Sadly, the victims include 7 children, all under the age of 5!

Crystal Maiden in the ATC

The most notable skeleton is the Crystal Maiden, named so because of the calcyte layer which has formed over her remains. It is believed she was bludgeoned to death. Nearby, a rudimentary stone tool with a chisel-like edge rests, presumably the tool used to sacrifice her.

The tour of ATM is not for the faint of heart. Vehicles can take passengers only so far. Once the vehicles are abandoned, tourists must complete a 45-minute hike. The hike is affected by three river fords (bring waterproof kits for cameras) and a brief swim to the cave entrance. The challenge is not over yet. Once past the cave entrance, visitors must climb, swim and tiptoe over 600 meters through cool air and cold water, along sharp, unpredictable edges and some carved calcite formations.

Once in the cave, visitors are on hallowed ground. Shoes are not permitted. What makes the cathedral-like cave so remarkable is its lack of ropes, glass or partitions – almost unheard of in many of the US and Europe’s attractions. The lack of patricians allows visitors so close to the artifacts that they accidentally step on some of the scattered pottery! Careful steps are necessary. This is also why Belize requires that visitors be chaperoned by a licensed tour guide. The Crystal Maiden rests in a separate, elevated chamber requiring the ascent of a rickety, aluminum ladder, the only modern feature this ancient site.

Liz and I are looking at this tour with great zeal and anticipation! I think that while some of the more delightful tourist opportunities like diving, snorkeling, booze cruises are mandatory, a real face-to-face encounter with the nation’s elaborate history is necessary. Furthermore, many places offer beaches and nurse sharks. But few, if any, offer such memorable experiences as a cave exploration with real human sacrifice remains! This should prove to be a remarkable penultimate event in our Belizean Adventure.

See: MayaWalk Tours.